STEP 1 LAYOUT
First work out where you want everything. It’s worth bearing in mind that when you finish, it’s all gotta be bolted down securely, as getting a sub box in the back of the bonce every time you perform an emergency stop will get annoying pretty quickly. Anyway, once you know where you want it, smile and pull it all back out.
STEP 2 RUN YOUR WIRES
Now for the science bit. Grab your wiring kit and run the wires from where your amp will sit. The power wire goes right through the car to the battery (via a big fuse), and the earth to a chassis ground somewhere in the boot. The RCAs need to be run to the back of the headunit along with the remote wire. Don’t connect anything yet!
STEP 3 SUB IN A BOX
If your sub isn’t already in a box, now’s the time to put it in. Don’t forget to connect the internal wires before you screw it all down! Usually subs need a certain volume of air in their enclosure to work correctly, so it’s much easier to buy a finished box matched to your sub than try to work out all the dimensions and make one!
STEP 4 MAKE THE CONNECTIONS!
The amplifier end is pretty simple, as it will tell you what goes where on the side. Round the back of the headunit, hook up your RCAs and connect the amp control wire to the blue remote wire on the ISO block. Connect your sub to its amp output and bolt your earth to a suitable ground. Last of all it’s the battery cable under the bonnet!
STEP 5 JOB DONE!
Finally you’ll need to set it all up, so turn the amp gain control to zero, set your headunit volume at about three quarters and crank up the gain until you hear the start of any distortion – then back it off a bit. Don’t spank it straight away; a sub is like an engine – it needs a bit of running in.